The Fashion Reader (Paperback, 2 Revised edition)

List of Figures List of Tables and Charts Acknowledgments Notes on Contributors General Introduction - Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Part I: A Brief History of Fashion Introduction - Linda Welters 1. From Prehistory through Byzantium - Abby Lillethun 2. Europe to 1700 - Linda Welters 3. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700-1790 - Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell 4. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860 - Susan North 5. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910 - Cynthia Cooper 6. The Modern Era: 1910-1960 - Tiffany Webber 7. The Postmodern Age: 1960-2010 - Jose Blanco F. Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I Part II: Fashion Theory Introduction - Abby Lillethun 8. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture - Thorstein Veblen 9. The Power of Fashion - Kurt Lang and Gladys Engel Lang 10. Written Clothing - Roland Barthes 11. The Fashion System - Grant McCracken 12. The Dressed Body - Joanne Entwistle 13. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory - Sandra Niessen 14. Fashion at the Edge - Caroline Evans Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II Part III: Psychology of Fashion Introduction - Abby Lillethun 15. The Fundamental Motives - J. C. Flugel 16. To the Fashion Industry as Represented by the British Fashion Council - Janet Treasure et al. 17. Hearts and Masks - David Muggleton 18. Shopping Addiction: Is Shopping Costing More Than Money? - Marilyn Clark and Kirsten Salerno Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III Part IV: Fashion and Identity Introduction - Abby Lillethun 19. Is it a Girl or a Boy? Gender Identity and Children's Clothing - Colleen R. Callahan and Jo B. Paoletti 20. Sentimental Culture and the Problem of Fashion - Karen Halttunen 21. Men and Women: Dressing the Part - Jo B. Paoletti and Claudia Brush Kidwell 22. The Zoot Suit and Style Warfare - Stuart Cosgrove 23. Invisible Men? - Shaun Cole 24. Subculture: The Unnatural Break - Dick Hebdige Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV Part V: Fashion: Space and Place Introduction - Linda Welters 25. World Cities of Fashion - David Gilbert 26. Popularizing Fashion in Melbourne, Australia - Sally Weller 27. Fashion Blogs - Sarah Moore 28. Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire - Wilbur Zelinsky Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V Part VI: Ethnicity, Culture and Dress Introduction - Abby Lillethun 29. The Highlander Myth - Hugh Trevor-Roper 30. The Veil in Their Minds and on Our Heads: Veiling Practices and Muslim Women - Homa Hoodfar 31. Guayaberismo and the Essence of Cool - Marilyn Miller 32. Youth Cosmopolitanism: Clothing, the City and Globalization in Dakar, Senegal - Suzanne Scheld Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI Part VII: Politics of Fashion Introduction - Abby Lillethun 33. Failed Censures: Ecclesiastical Regulation of Women's Clothing in Late Medieval Italy - Thomas M. Izbicki 34. The Calico Campaign: Prohibition of East Indian Cottons - Beverly Lemire 35. Trade Policies - Arthur C. Mead 36. Finding the Moral Fiber: Why Reform is Urgently Needed for a Fair Cotton Trade - Oxfam Briefing Paper 37. Sweatshop: A First Edition - Robert J. S. Ross 38. Not Only Nike's Doing It: "Sweating" and the Contemporary Labor Market - Richard McIntyre and Yngve Ramstad 39. Feminism and Fashion - Elizabeth Wilson Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII Part VIII: Fashion and the Body Introduction - Abby Lillethun 40. Corsets in Vogue - Valerie Steele 41. Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro - Robin D. G. Kelley 42. "Material Girl": Madonna as Postmodern Heroine - Susan Bordo 43. The Slimming of Yvonne Blue - Joan Jacobs Brumberg 44. Fashioning the Body Today - Susan J. Vincent Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII Part IX: Fashion and Art Introduction - Linda Welters 45. Art and Fashion - Michael Boodro 46. Fashion Rendering - Richard Martin 47. On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography - Olivier Zahm 48. Viktor & Rolf - Andrew Bolton 49. Shed, Cathedral or Museum? - Chantal Beret Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX Part X: Fashion, Media and Communication Introduction - Linda Welters 50. Fashion on the Page - Christopher Breward 51. Supermodels and Super Bodies - Jennifer Craik 52. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis - Kathleen Craughwell-Varda 53. Hot Couture: Brigitte Bardot's Fashion Revolution - Ginette Vincendeau 54. Sex and the City in the British Fashion Press - Anna Konig 55. Hip Hop - Tricia Rose 56. Selling Culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the New Aristocracy of Taste in Reagan's America - Debora Silverman Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X Part XI: From Haute Couture to the Street Introduction - Linda Welters 57. When Worth Was King - Anne Hollander 58. The Dressmaking World - Therese Bonney and Louise Bonney 59. Torontonian Taste in Couture - Alexandra Palmer 60. Trickle Down, Bubble Up - Ted Polhemus 61. Secondhand Dresses and the Role of the Ragmarket - Angela McRobbie 62. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood - Sonnet Stanfill 63. Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge To Be Seen and To Be Heard - Yuniya Kawamura Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI Part XII: Design and Manufacture Introduction - Linda Welters 64. Inside Design-A Look at the Method Behind the Madness - Katy Chapman 65. Fashion Sorceress - Linda Tischler 66. The Diary of a Dress: Alexander McQueen Shares the Saga of How One of His Inspirations-A Peter Arnold Orchid Photograph-Evolved from Simple Sketch to Production Nightmare to a Stunning Gown Fit for Supermodel Naomi Campbell - Lisa Armstrong 67. Born in the USA: The Growing Premium-Denim Market Goes Global - Julia Fein Azoulay 68. It's in the Bag - Dana Thomas Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XII Part XIII: Marketing and Merchandising Introduction - Linda Welters 69. Business Sense: It Takes a Lot More than Individual Flair to Stay at the Top - John Andrews 70. Return to Clubland - Mark Tungate 71. New Luxury - Dana Thomas 72. American Apparel - Rob Walker 73. Dorothy Shaver: Promoter of "The American Look" - Tiffany Webber-Hanchett Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIII Part XIV: The Fashion Business and Global Economics Introduction - Abby Lillethun 74. What Happened to Fashion? - Teri Agins 75. The Islamic Factor - Nicholas Coleridge 76. Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion - Teresa M. McCarthy 77. Four Models of Fashion Relationships - Simona Segre Reinach 78. Fashion in India - Vandana Bhandari 79. Made in China - Arthur C. Mead 80. "Two for a Penny" - Pietra Rivoli Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIV Part XV: Sustainability and Fashion Introduction - Linda Welters 81. Fiber Sustainability: Green is Not Black + White - Martin Bide 82. Weaving a New Future - Julian M. Allwood, Søren Ellebæk Laursen, Cecilia Malvido De Rodriguez and Nancy M. Bocken 83. Digital and Democratic - Sarah Scaturro Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XV Part XVI: Future of Fashion Introduction - Linda Welters 84. The Evolution of the Chicago Fashion Initiative - Melissa Gamble 85. Born to Buy - Juliet B. Schor 86. Aging and Demographics: Implications for the Fashion Industry - Claire Lacoste-Kapstein 87. Luxury Fashion Branding - Uche Okonkwo 88. Wearable Technology - Lucy E. Dunne Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XVI Bibliography Index