A Cultural History of Western Fashion : From Haute Couture to Virtual Couture (Paperback, 3 ed)

Introduction 1. The Commercialization of Fashion Dress and Society in Europe Before the Twentieth Century Social Implications of Dress The Rise of Haute Couture Charles Frederick Worth The Rise of Consumerism The Social Equalizer of the Department Store 2. The Artistry of Fashion Artist-Led Workshops Haute Couture at the Turn of the Twentieth Century Paul Poiret: King of Fashion The Goddess Silhouettes of Vionnet and Fortuny Sonia Delaunay: Simultaneous Contrast of Colours Elsa Schiaparelli: Surrealism in Fashion 3. The Democratization of Fashion Changes in Commerce and Social Structure The Art of Fashion Advertising Flooding the American Market: Reproductions and Fakes Coco Chanel: Pauvrete De Luxe Jean Patou: Style meets Scandal Fashion and Functionalist Theory Stepanova and Popova: Russian Constructivism Dressing Thousands: The Birth of Pret-A-Porter 4. The Americanization of Fashion Slop Shops, Sweatshops, and Factory Work Fit and Function Piracy in Fashion American Couture The 'American Look' in Ready-to-Wear Changes in Menswear: Shirts, Jeans, and Suits Fashion in Film: Costume Designer as Couturier Fashion as Sociopolitical Statement: Zoot Suits 5. The Popularization of Fashion Haute Couture Following the Second World War Christobal Balenciaga Christian Dior Yves Saint Laurent Andre Courreges Pierre Cardin Clothing and Popular Culture The Swinging '60s in London Mary Quant Alternative Fashion Zandra Rhodes Laura Ashley 6. The Postmodernization of Fashion Postmodernism in Fashion and Art The Rejection of Fashion Vivienne Westwood: Anarchy as Inspiration Fashion and Music Anti-Fashion as Feminism Japanese Conceptual Fashion: Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo Redefining Popular Culture Through Heritage Contextualization 7. The Deviance of Fashion Franco Moschino Viktor & Rolf Martin Margiela Alexander McQueen Harajuku Street Fashion Fashion Imagery and Notions of Gender Construction The Reinvention of Menswear 8. The Lifestyle of Fashion American Sportswear Designers Ralph Lauren Calvin Klein Donna Karan Redefining Womenswear: Power Dressing Fashion as Ideological Billboard Street Style on the Catwalk 9. The Corporatization of Fashion Global Conglomerates LVMH: The Super Syndicate Luxury Heritage Branding The Designer as Product Fashion as Philanthropy and Installation Perfume: A License to Make Money The Death of Haute Couture? Counterfeit Chic Ecommerce and Online Shopping Conclusion Notes Bibliography