Fit and Sew Custom Jeans: Classic and Creative Sewing Techniques for Modern Patterns (Paperback)

CONTENTS

About the author..........................................................6

Foreword by Pati Palmer...............................................7

CHAPTER 1.................................................................8
Why Sew Jeans? A Bit of History

CHAPTER 2 .......................................................10
Tools • Sewing Machines & Sergers • Tools for Pressing, Cutting, Marking, Tissue-Fitting Alterations, Hardware Setting

CHAPTER 3...............................................................16
Materials • Denim Basics • Hardware, Needles, Thread, Interfacing, Zippers

CHAPTER 4.......................................................23
Patterns, Fit & Alterations • Personal Jeans Profile • Jeans Patterns and Sizing • Our Jeans-Making Order Includes Fit • Understanding Ease • Crotch Length and Crotch Depth • Tissue-Fitting—Why Tissue-Fit? | Choosing Your Best Pattern Size | Denim Wrap Test | Preparing Your Pattern for Tissue-Fitting | The Tissue-Fitting Order | Pattern Tissue Alterations | Fabric-Fitting Alterations

CHAPTER 5.......................................................62
Real People Fitting Jeans • Learning fit by examining different bodies • Ava | Ali | Pati | Helen | Julie | Greg | Taylor | Jeff

CHAPTER 6.....................................................108
Before You Sew • Good Sewing Hygiene • Fabric Prep • Prepare the Altered Pattern for Cutting, Making 1” Seams • Layout & Cutting • Transfer Pattern Markings • Seams, Topstitching, Bartacks, Buttonholes

CHAPTER 7.....................................................124
Constructing Jeans • Snap-View Construction Order • Step-By-Step Jeans Construction Quick Stitch Length Guide | Interfacing | Efficiency Serging | Belt Loops Prep | Back & Coin Pockets | Front Pockets | Fly Front Zipper| Baste & Fabric Fit | Fabric-Fitting Order | Yokes | Back Pockets | Inseams | Crotch Seam | Side Seams | Belt Loop Placement | Waistband | Attaching Belt loops | BarTacks | Buttonhole | Hem | Setting Hardware

CHAPTER 8.....................................................158
Design Mods • Legs — Articulated Knee | Seam Design Ideas • Pockets — Pocket Bag Variations | Topstitched Trouser Pocket | Coin Pockets | Back Pocket Variations | Topstitched Welt Pocket | Tulip Pocket | Darted Cargo Pocket • Front Closures — Hidden Button Fly | Exposed Button Fly | Mock Fly for Pull-On Jeans • Waistbands — Full Elastic • Hems & the Bottom Line — Raw Edge | Fringed Raw Edge | Tulip Hem | Exposed Ankle Zipper | Slits

CHAPTER 9.....................................................230
Care & Feeding of Jeans

CHAPTER 10............................................... 232
Templates • Fly Topstitching | Topstitched Welt Pocket | Darted Cargo Pocket | Tulip Pocket Resources and Metric Conversion Chart....................235

Index.......................................................................236

Other Palmer/Pletsch Products..................................238

CONTENTS

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