SEOUL 2012.6

8

Travel

Unfinished conflict

Heading north through the Korean War's past and present



12

CityscapesⅠ

Seoul’s war sites

How a city remembers



16

Special report I

Battleground Seoul:

Gobau’s Art of War

Cartoonist Kim Song-hwan's depictions of Korea at war



18

Special report II: Jeju

An island for all seasons

Jeju-do offers something for everyone



22

Temple stay

Temple Cuisine

The ultimate slow food, Korea’s Buddhist dishes

are a healthy?and spiritual?experience



24

Gangnam spotlight

The streets of ‘Serosugil’

Gangnam's quasi-European chic radiates outward



26

Seoul Sub→urban

Yongdu Station

Cheonggyecheon Stream reveals its convoluted history



28

Dining+

Budae jjigae and Johnson Stew

Historic, eclectic, highly addictive



30

Shopping

Korean gifts on a budget

Stock up on prezzies with a few quick laps of eMart



32

InterviewⅠ I

Krys Lee

Drifing House author sits down with SEOUL



34

Interview II

Forest author Kim Heung-sook

Meeting nature and the self through poetry



35

SEOUL history

Ever-evolving Myeong-dong

Today's commercial frenzy simply the latest vibe



36

Special report III

Korea home brewing

SEOUL's guide to open closet doors around the capital



38

Interview III

Loose Union

Seoul's independent music scene is here to stay



40

Hallyu news

Cover dance crazes, secret weapons



41

Toni&Guy hair trends

Vivid color short cut



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42

Goings on around town

Previews, listings, more



46

Expot Community Page



49

Maps & guides



59

Useful coupons



61

Seoul of Zen