Seoul

Introduction 6
Seoul’s Best 7 10
Seoul: Lay of the Land 22
History of Seoul 25

Part I
Gwanghwamun Area 35
·Gyeongbokgung Palace 41 ·Changdeokgung Palace 47 ·Jongmyo Shrine 53
·Changgyeonggung Palace 57 ·Samcheong-dong 63 ·Bukchon 69
·Insa-dong 75 ·Deoksugung Palace 87 ·Jeong-dong 93 ·City Hall Area 101
Myeong-dong Area 113
·Myeong-dong 117 · Namdaemun Area 125
Seongbuk-dong Area 133
·Seongbuk-dong 137 ·Buam-dong 145
Dongdaemun Area 153
·Dongdaemun Market 157 ·Daehangno 167
Seodaemun Area 173
·Sinchon 177 ·Hongik University Area 183
·Seodaemun Prison Museum & Independence Park 189
Yongsan Area 197
·Itaewon 201 ·More Yongsan Sites 209
Hangang River Area 217
·River Cruises 221 ·Yeouido 223 ·Seoul Forest 229
·Yanghwajin 231 ·Riverside Parks 237
Gangnam Area 243
·Apgujeong-dong & Cheongdam-dong 247 ·COEX Mall 253
·Performing Arts in Gangnam 255 ·Lotte World 259 ·Gwacheon 263
Excursions Around Seoul 267
·The DMZ 271 ·Ganghwa Island 275 ·Incheon 283 ·Yongin 289
·Suwon Hwaseong Fortress 293 ·Cheonan Independence Hall 295
·Icheon 299 ·Cheorwon 303 ·Joseon Royal Tombs 307
Mountains 311
·Mt. Namsan 315 ·Mt. Bugaksan 321 ·Mt. Inwangsan 325
·Mt. Gwanaksan 331 ·Mt. Bukhansan 335

Part II
Information for Visitors 340
·Before You Arrive 340 ·Immigration & Customs 342
·Basic Korean Culture 344 ·Local Info 346
Transportation 359
·Getting To/From Korea 359 ·Getting Around Korea 361
Accommodations 368
·Accommodation List 370
Korean Food 383
Shopping 396
·Things to Buy 396 ·Markets 398 ·Shopping Area 401
Basic Korean 408
·Useful Expressions 410 ·Language Programs 416
Performing Arts 418
·Korean Performing Arts 418 ·Venues 422
Museums & Galleries 428
·History Museums 428 ·Art Museums & Galleries 431
Festivals 434
·Seoul 434 ·Outside Seoul 438
Nightlife & Entertainment 440
·Traditional Teashops 440 · Caf?s 442 · Pubs & Wine Bars 444
·Spas & Saunas 448 · Karaoke 450 · Internet Caf?s 450
Cinemas 452
Activities 456
·Zen Practice 456 · Korean Traditional Medicine 458
·Cooking 460 · Volunteering 461
Acknowledgement / History Disclaimer / Credits 464

History & Culture
·Empress Myeongseong 45
·The King Who Killed His Own Son 58
·Korean Politics 66
·Hanok 70
·March 1 Independence Movement 78
·Korean Buddhism 81
·A Cup of Coffee for the Emperor 88
·King Gojong and the Rise and Fall of the Daehan Empire 91
·Dangerous for Your Relationship? 93
·Samulnori 99
·A Royal Grudge 102
·The Riot Police 105
·Yi Sun-sin and the Imjin War 107
·Myeong-dong History 123
·Dokkaebi? Dokkaebi Market? 128
·Gisaeng: Speaking Flowers 141
·Heungseon Daewongun 147
·Dongdaemun Gate 159
·Multicultural Seoul 162
·Missionaries and Korean Christianity 180
·Multinational Growing Pains 183
·Independence Day and the Korean Flag 193
·US Army Garrison-Yongsan 212
·Tragedy of the Hangang Bridge 227
·Korean Christianity 234
·Korean War & National Reunification 273
·French, American and Japanese Raids on Ganghwa Island 276
·Korea’s Foundation Myth: Dangun 281
·The Controversial Statue 287
·Korean Ceramics 301
·Korean Confucianism 308
·Korean Shamanism 328
·Valentine’s Day, White Day, Black Day, Pepero Day 347
·Dog Meat and Boyangsik 395
·Korea’s “Bang” Culture 451

Maps
·Seoul Map 8
·Gwanghwamun Map 38
·Samcheong-dong Map 64
·Insa-dong Map 76
·Myeong-dong Map 118
·Seongbuk-dong Map 138
·Dongdaemun Map 158
·Sinchon/Hongdae Map 178
·Hongdae Map 184
·Itaewon Map 202
·Apgujeong/Cheongdam Map 248
·Gangnam Map 254
·Subway Map 462